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There lay three black tents, and beyond one other hill in the locality Kangmar, seven. When we encamped, sixty men, women, and youngsters got here out and watched us. They had gathered together here to pay their taxes to a collector from Saka. The district is known as Bongba-chushar, and the elderly Gova came to visit us. Panchor, who was accustomed to run with the hare and hunt with the hounds, had most likely given him an account of us 380 beforehand. It seems he was terribly frightened, for he had never in his life seen a European.
On a pointy ridge to the north-west seven yaks have been tramping within the snow. Panchor and one of many troopers went on foot in pursuit of them—to mount these steep hills on foot and carry heavy, clumsy guns is hard work. We rode on among the many granite boulders; lower down green porphyry begins. The gradient turned extra mild, and where we encamped we might scarcely perceive during which path the valley sloped.
Panchor suggested us to stay a day within the valley, for we should always not find pasture as good as right here for a long time. I puzzled how he could know that, seeing that he had said recently that he had never been north of the Sangmo-bertik-la. Our direction becomes now extra northerly and we go up the Sangmo-bertik valley, where the underside is filled with ice clear as glass, however there is good pasturage on the flanks. The nation is sort of flat between Kanchung-gangri and the principle crest of the Trans-Himalaya. Over the Dicha-la runs the lately mentioned road to the Buptsang-tsangpo and Tabie-tsaka.
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But the day was warm, nay sizzling, when the sun shone and the air was nonetheless. The dreary barren valleys lay ready for the rainy season. The grass was greater than scanty, for final summer the rains failed. We said farewell on May 24, and continued our journey westwards along the southern shore of the lake.
I told him as soon as and for all, that if he didn’t speak the truth he would receive no additional gratuity. In the night he declared that there were dreadful apparitions at Muhamed Isa’s grave, and that at evening fearful shrieks and groans might be heard from beneath. He was fairly satisfied that spirits and demons haunted the grave, and mentioned that no Tibetan ventured to go close to the place; this was well, for consequently the grave wouldn’t be desecrated. Though it was a great battle for our horses, we came eventually to the Sangmo-bertik-la, on the giddy peak of 19,094 ft, and now I stood for the seventh time on the primary crest of the Trans-Himalaya and the watershed of the nice Indian rivers. The view was closed in on all sides and limited by adjacent heights.
North, north-west, and north-east are several gangris with firn-fields and snow, all belonging to the primary range of the 376 Trans-Himalaya. To the east lies a cross, the Nakbo-kongdo-la, with the Nakbo-gongrong-gangri; over this move, which also appears to lie on the primary watershed, a road runs to Targo-gangri and Dangra-yum-tso. Between Raga-tasam and Ombo a road crosses the Tsalam-nakta-la, principally frequented by salt caravans. From camp 402 we could still see Chomo-uchong to the south, 13° E. Following the stream upwards we got here to the small lake Lapchung-tso, entirely lined with ice, and set up camp 401 on its eastern shore.
So on May 14 we rode farther north in blinding snow, and passed numerous manis, 9 standing in a single row. The valley grew to become more open, and was greater than a mile broad. We discovered no water at the camp, but two of our yaks have been laden with blocks of ice. Every night we sat an hour conversing with Panchor, and it was simple to examine his statements.
The water is salt and has an extremely disagreeable taste, and cannot be drunk in any circumstances. Lamlung-la is a commanding move see this page, which should be crossed to cut off a peninsula.
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Here and there are freshwater lagoons on the shore, which forms a very slender belt at the foot of the mountains. We followed the southern shore another day to the spring Tertsi at the western extremity of the lake, which types a big regular growth. The valley opens out on to a plain the place kiangs, Goa and Pantholops antelopes are plentiful. From the ridge of a hill we see to the east another nonetheless larger plain, past which Targo-gangri could be visible if the mountain weren’t shrouded in clouds and falling snow.